Tale of two waves, or why it is (relatively) easy to catch one.

The Ocean wave, when viewed in the water moving from right to left is a small counter clockwise movement. this leads to the paradox that the lifting front of the advancing wave has actually a downward component. The water on top of the wave advances in the direction of the direction WITH the wave, though. This surface movement is the one that allows the wave to actually catch the surfer and not the other way around, and why it is best to to dive under a wave to let the "undertow" to tow you out.
Rotating ave No.2 is the one present around a flying wing. Here we could see a clockwise rotation, with lifting in the front. Counterintuitively on top of the wing the wave component goes contrary to the wing's movement, and at the trailing edge the wave moves down, satisfying newton's reaction law, to make that edge (and the aeroplane) go UP. The contrary moving top of that "wave" increases the airspeed over that curved surface, creating better suction, that Bernoulli and Venturi explained,-- gives lift. * and it is a stable wave: take a sliver of paper and spin it around it's length, it will keep rotating gently to the ground.
Tales of two waves, very uplifting.
* that gives 3 Theories of lift in flight, 1)Newton, 2) suction and 3)wave, what is the 4st one?
Last edited:
On CNN currently is the video of a surfer being picked up at the bottom of a "pipeline" wave, lifted to the inside of the top and catapulted forward in the underside of the breaking lip.